Winter-time and the living is … quiet.  In Alba at any rate.  January is a fallow month here – only the sales to compensate for Christmas having gone, the lights coming down, the cold, dark days leading into colder, darker nights.

So, what better time to head to one of my all-time favourite cities, Verona?

This post started out about the delights of visiting this beautiful city, with tales of tours to local wine producers and a nod to the wonder of Verona, Bottega Vini.  (I know the Roman arena, still in use each summer staging opera, is pretty impressive, but the Bottega is a special place … )  When I began to write, however, I realised that I wanted to do more than nod to the Bottega.  So you’ve got a post all about it.  I’ll tell you about visiting producers and the wonderful city of Verona soon.  In the meantime, here’s a little rhapsody about Bottega Vini.

I Have To Declare An Interest …

I should point out at this stage that I have had a soft spot for the Bottega since 2002.  Vinitaly 2002 to be precise.  For this is when it all began for me with the Bottega.

After a long day pouring, tasting and discussing wines with importers from around the world, followed by a long dinner with importers keen to sample all the best dining and sluicing that Verona had to offer, a friend working at another wine producer – and I’m not afraid to name him: Jeff from Marchesi di Grésy – persuaded me that a quick glass at the Bottega was in order.  Upon my arrival, the street you see in the header photo was overflowing with punters trying to get in.  I texted Jeff to say that our getting a glass at said watering hole didn’t look likely.

Upon Jeff’s arrival, we squeeeeeeeezed in, he waved at the barman – for Jeff knows everyone, and they know him – and we were directed to the rear of the establishment.  Where, behind the curtain, we were presented with an empty room with perhaps 6 or 8 tables.  Jeff & I seated ourselves, rolled up our sleeves and got to work on the ‘book’.  Presently another friend arrived, Julian, and weighed-in on the vinous choices before us.  Soon we had ordered an Amarone (my apologies, I don’t remember which), a 1985 Domaine de Chevalier Graves red, another 1985 Domaine de Chevalier Graves red because the first one was corked, the Bottega’s last bottle of 1978 Barbaresco Camp Gros Marchesi di Grésy (their first year, and the winery had none left themselves) and – I think – another Amarone: things are hazy by this stage.

At some point we migrated downstairs to the cellar – see the link to the Bottega’s wine list below below for an idea of what that was like – and began on the sweet wines.  We were enjoying something rather fabulous, with a Malvasia delle Lipari Passito Selezione Carlo Hauner by Hauner on ice still to be opened, when I happened to glance at my watch and formed the opinion that the Hauner might be for another time, for it was 6.30am.

So, you see, a cursory nod was never going to be enough.

Ladies and gentlemen, I give you Bottega Vini!

After that introduction, it pretty much goes without saying that the first thing anyone at all interested in wine should do upon alighting in Verona, is head to Bottega Vini … If you would like to know if they have a decent wine list, have a gander at this – I mean, even just the photo of the cellar is enough to excite lively interest.  As I write, there are a mere 32 rosé Champagnes to choose from.

But the Bottega is so much more than just a wine list.  For a start, they do food – proper, sit-down food, not just wine bar nibbles.  Then there is the locale itself: perfectly situated right in the heart of Verona’s centro Storico, yet somehow lurking in the shadow of a side-street.  Inside is a wonderful old interior: characterful; lived-in.

And the staff.  There’s no arrogance about them, but they exude an easy-going self-assurance and an awareness that they know both their job and that they are good at it.

All-in-all you feel in capable hands.  And you are, as the photo above shows.  The Blanc de Blancs Champagne – the third one on the board for all you eagle-eyed curios – went extremely well with the little serving of roasted red pepper and anchovy on brown bread that I ordered.  See?  They know what they’re doing.

It felt bad to begin my Veneto wine adventure with a Blanc de Blancs Champagne (if you can believe it’s ever bad to start anything with a Blanc de Blancs Champagne … ) so I ordered another glass, this time of something local.  Being a cold night – already hovering around 0°C – I opted for an Amarone.

In so doing, I met a local fella who clearly frequented the place and we fell into chatting about Verona, wine, life.  He had stopped, as I imagined he did on many evenings, on his way home for dinner, and sipped his last mouthful, paid and left.  To my left was a couple enjoying their own glasses of sparkling wine.  We struck up a conversation and it emerged that Christian runs a local micro-brewery, Mastino.  I’ve not tried their beers, but when I do, I will let you know!

Convivial.  That’s how I would describe the atmosphere at the Bottega.  This was a Sunday evening and it was comfortably full of a blend of locals and wine-loving pilgrimage makers.  For this is one of the best and best-known wine bars in Italy.

Were I living in Verona – which I would happily do if not for the commute – this would unequivocally be my local.  I know that Verona is full of terrific wine bars.  But still, this would be my local.

If you’re in Verona, you really must drop by, even just once.